From Scratch: A Memoir of Love, Sicily, and Finding Home(92)

PASTA CON ZUCCHINI


Sicilian Summer Pasta There are many varieties of Sicilian zucchini; the most majestic is the long, pale green type known as cucuzze. Farmers all around Aliminusa grow them in abundance. Unpretentious, they are featured in soups, in pastas, and on the grill. Cucuzze are not found in supermarkets stateside. However, this recipe works just as well with the zucchini found in your local grocery store. This can be made as a pasta sauce or as a stand-alone side dish.

1 medium red onion, chopped

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 pound fresh summer tomatoes, Roma or plum, peeled and chopped 3 medium zucchini, chopped (peeled if you prefer, but not necessary) 1 vegetable bouillon cube

1/2 cup torn fresh basil leaves Sea salt and black pepper to taste

Spaghetti or your preferred long pasta Shredded ricotta salata or grated pecorino for garnish In a saucepan, sauté the onion in olive oil over medium-high heat for about 2 to 3 minutes, until golden. Add the tomatoes and cook for another two minutes. Add the zucchini and stir. Break the bouillon cube into the saucepan, then add the basil, 3/4 cup water, and salt and pepper to taste. Cover and cook over medium heat, until the zucchini is soft, about 20 minutes. Turn off the heat and allow to sit.

Boil the pasta in well-salted water. Drain. Return to pot. Add the zucchini and tomato sauce and stir well, streaming in a bit of additional olive oil to bring together the sauce and the pasta. Plate and sprinkle with cheese as a garnish or abundantly, if you desire.

Serves 4 to 6.





PENNE CON FINOCCHIO E FAVE


Penne with Fennel and Fava Beans If there is one dish that transports me to my first trip to Sicily with Saro, the time he unfurled the island to me in all its glory, this dish is it. It reminds me of his life force, his “spring,” his ultimate evolution of spirit. Plus it is just damn good. (This recipe calls for the fennel found at your local grocer. But if you want to grow your own fennel, you will marvel at what nature can do.) Saro, I hope I make you proud with this one.

1 teaspoon coarse sea salt

2 cups fresh fava beans, shelled

2 cups chopped fennel greens (the top of the bulb) 3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil Coarse sea salt and freshly cracked pepper to taste 11/2 tablespoons coarse sea salt 1 white onion, chopped

1 pound penne pasta

Freshly grated pecorino cheese

Cracked pepper for garnish (optional) Bring 1 quart of water to a boil. Add the sea salt and stir. Add the fava beans and fennel greens. Simmer until the vegetables are very tender, about 10 minutes.

Using a strainer, remove the beans and greens. Briefly set aside the vegetable water, then transfer it into a large pot you’ll use for cooking the pasta.

In a food processor, puree the beans and the greens with 1/2 cup of the olive oil and add salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.

Add 3 quarts of water to the vegetable water in the pot and bring to a boil. Add 11/2 tablespoons sea salt.

Meanwhile, in a large sauté pan, heat the remaining 1/4 cup of olive oil and the onion over a medium-high flame until it turns golden brown, stirring often, about 2 minutes. Reduce the heat and fold in the puree. Simmer over a very low flame for 5 minutes.

Cook the pasta in the well-salted boiling water, stirring often, until al dente. Drain the penne and return it to the pot. Add the puree of beans and greens, toss well, stream in a bit of olive oil, and simmer on low heat for 1 minute. Add a little extra pasta water if you like a thinner sauce.

Serve hot, garnished liberally with pecorino and a bit of cracked pepper if desired. Then toast to your life.

Serves 4 to 6.





INSALATA DI FINOCCHIO


Shaved Fennel and Citrus Salad Being in Sicily has taught me the pleasure of eating raw fennel, often sprinkled with just a little salt, at the end of a meal. It is an old island custom to eat the fennel as a digestive, like a piece of fruit. At home I turn to this recipe as an alternative to a traditional lettuce salad. I adore the contrast of textures and the bright citrus flavors. In my version, I forgo including slices of orange in the salad itself. Instead, I prefer the zesty citrus essence to come through in the dressing. This salad is at once crispy, citrusy, and salty with a hint of sweetness—a refreshing Sicilian pick-me-up.

2 tablespoons fresh orange or blood orange juice 2 tablespoons white or red wine vinegar 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon honey

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 fennel bulb with fronds, thinly sliced Juice of half a lemon

1/2 large red onion, thinly sliced 1/4 cup oil-cured black olives 1/4 cup chopped fresh mint leaves Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Shaved parmigiano cheese

Combine the orange juice, vinegar, olive oil, honey, fennel seeds, salt, and pepper. Whisk vigorously until well blended. Set aside.

Cut the stems off the fennel, reserving the fronds for garnishing the salad. Cut the fennel in half, remove the core, and cut into quarters. Using a mandoline or small sharp knife, slice the fennel pieces thinly. Place them in a bowl. Sprinkle with lemon juice and dust with a pinch of salt. Add the onion and olives. Pour the vinaigrette over the salad and toss. Place in a shallow salad bowl or rimmed platter and garnish with the fennel fronds and mint. Add sliced parmigiano cheese (if desired). Dust with a few grinds of black pepper and serve immediately.

Serves 4.





GRANITA DI GELSI NERI