From Scratch: A Memoir of Love, Sicily, and Finding Home(91)
Caponata can also be served cold on a hot summer day. For added flavor and an extra bit of texture, sprinkle toasted almonds on top.
Serves 4 to 6.
MELANZANE ALLA PARMIGIANA
Eggplant Parmigiana Chargrilled eggplant works beautifully in this classic dish. It’s actually the only way I make it in L.A. I have a weakness for the chargrilled flavor that you won’t get with frying. The joy of this dish is in the layering. Two layers of eggplant will do, but three or four are divine.
4 to 5 medium to large eggplants, cut in 1/2-inch-thick rounds Coarse sea salt
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil Freshly ground black pepper 2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 teaspoon Sicilian dried oregano 6 cups quality tomato sauce (see recipe for Salsa Pronta) 1/3 cup pecorino or parmigiano cheese, finely grated 1 bunch of basil, stems removed and chopped Preheat the oven to 375° F.
Place the eggplant rounds in a large bowl. Liberally sprinkle salt all over them and allow them to sit in the bowl to release the excess water from the eggplant. After 45 minutes to 1 hour, drain the water from the bowl. Drizzle with olive oil, coating each slice, then season with the black pepper, garlic, and oregano.
Grill each round 1 to 2 minutes on each side. Set aside.
Heat the tomato sauce on medium-high flame.
Drizzle the bottom of a large ceramic or glass baking dish with olive oil and cover it with 1 cup of tomato sauce. Line the bottom of the baking dish with a layer of eggplant. Spoon tomato sauce on top of the eggplant. Add grated cheese and basil leaves. Then repeat with another layer of eggplant. Coat with another layer of sauce, cheese, and basil. Bake until the cheese has melted and the sauce is bubbling, about 30 minutes.
Serves 4 to 6.
SFUAGGHIU
“Schiavelli’s Cake”
This cake is about adventure, longing, persistence, and hope all at once. Today, when I see the photograph of Saro and Vincent Schiavelli in our L.A. apartment long ago, smiling and holding the cake, my heart soars. I like to imagine that those immigrant sons are enjoying a bite together wherever their souls may be. (Note: To my knowledge, Pino the baker never divulged his recipe to Schiavelli. It does not appear in Schiavelli’s book, Many Beautiful Things. I found this recipe, a variation of the cake he discussed in his book, on the official site of the town of Polizzi Generosa.) I’ve included the recipe here for the truly adventurous baker.
For the filling: 1 pound fresh tuma cheese
5 egg whites, room temperature 2 cups sugar
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon Dark chocolate, to taste
1/3 cup candied fruit, cut into pieces For the cake: 4 cups flour
1 cup lard, cut into pieces, plus more for greasing the pan 6 egg yolks, beaten, room temperature 1 cup sugar
1/4 cup powdered sugar Preheat the oven to 375° F.
Make the filling: Grate the cheese very fine into a bowl. Add the egg whites, beating in the sugar, cinnamon, chocolate, and candied fruit alternately. Mix well and set aside.
Make the cake: Add the flour to a bowl and make an indentation in it. Add the lard to the indentation, then fold in the flour, mixing well with your hands. Add the sugar and egg yolks. Continue to mix well with your hands. If it is dry, feel free to add a little water. Roll out half the batter into a thin layer about 1/2-inch thick. Place on the bottom of a 9-inch round springform baking pan greased with lard and dusted with flour.
Assemble the cake: Pour the filling over the dough, being careful not to pour it too high as it will swell when baking. Cover it with another layer of dough. Pinch the sides closed along the edges. Bake for about 1 hour. Remove from the oven and dust with powdered sugar. Let the cake rest for a whole day before eating.
Serves 12 to 14.
Third Summer
SALSA PRONTA
Classic Tomato Sauce Normally, this sauce would be made with fresh San Marzano tomatoes in a large cauldron over a wood-burning fire. This recipe is a version you can do any time of year in your home kitchen. I make large pots of it, then store it in the refrigerator or freezer. That way, I am never without “ready sauce” for pasta, lasagna, soups, or eggplant parmigiana. (Note: the longer you cook the sauce, the denser it will be. If desired, you can cook it into a loose paste. It is delicious as a pizza sauce.) 2 (28-ounce) cans San Marzano tomatoes, chopped 2 large red onions, coarsely chopped 4 cloves garlic, peeled
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil Large bunch of basil
1 tablespoon sea salt, or to taste 1 tablespoon sugar
Oregano and red pepper flakes (optional) Combine the tomatoes and 1/2 cup water in a large pot. Add half of the onion and half of the garlic. Bring to a boil, then reduce and simmer, covered, for about 40 minutes, stirring frequently to keep from sticking. Remove from the heat. Pass through a food mill or blend in a blender to make a puree.
In a food processor, combine the olive oil, basil, and the remaining onion and garlic. Puree until very smooth.
In a clean pot, combine the tomato puree and the basil puree. Cook over medium heat, uncovered, until it thickens, 20 to 30 minutes (longer if you are going for a paste consistency). Remove from heat. Add the salt and sugar. If you are making sauce for pizza or prefer a little spicier flavor, add a small amount of oregano and/or pinch of red pepper flakes.
This sauce can be canned in sterilized jars while still hot or stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 to 4 days or in the freezer for up to a month.
Makes about 8 cups.