From Scratch: A Memoir of Love, Sicily, and Finding Home(90)
Serves 4 to 6.
PUREA DE FAVE CON CROSTINI
Pureed Fava Beans with Crostini Shelling fresh fava beans is a labor of love. Removing the hull and peeling back the outer skin of each bean takes time, patience, and a soulful respect for the cultivation of this generous bean. There is a reason it has been a Mediterranean mainstay for centuries. For me, preparing fava beans is a kind of meditation. I put on some music, pour myself a glass of wine, and ready the beans. It is the way Saro taught me. Once prepared, these crostini are a sublime delicacy, earthy and inspired.
2 pounds of fresh fava beans, still in the pod 21/4 teaspoons sea salt 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 small white onion, finely chopped 2 tablespoons fresh mint, chopped
1/2 teaspoon lemon juice Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste 1 baguette or loaf of artisanal bread
1 clove garlic to rub on the bread
Thinly sliced pecorino cheese for garnish (optional) Shuck the fava beans (remove the beans from their bulky pods). Fill a large saucepan half full of water and add 2 teaspoons of salt. Bring the water to a boil. Meanwhile, put a few cups of ice in a medium mixing bowl and fill with water.
Add the beans to the boiling water and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, no more. Turn off the heat and strain the beans into the ice-water bath. (Be careful to save a bit of the water that the beans were boiled in.) Let the beans sit in the ice bath for 1 to 2 minutes. Drain the ice water from the pan. Remove the outer coating of each bean, pinching the end and slipping the bean out of the skin.
In a medium skillet, heat the olive oil and add the onion. Cook until translucent, about 2 minutes. Add the beans, the saved bean water, and the remaining salt. Stir and allow to simmer for 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, stir in the mint, and add the lemon juice. Put the mixture into a food processor and blend until creamy smooth, streaming in a little more olive oil if necessary to make it creamier. Add salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.
Slice the bread into 1-inch-thick slices. Grill or broil until lightly golden. Remove, rub with a clove of garlic, and brush with olive oil. Top each piece of bread with a hearty heap of fava bean puree. Garnish with a slice of pecorino, if desired. Top with the remaining mint.
Makes a dozen pieces.
PESCE SPADA ALLA GRIGLIA CON SALSA SALMORIGLIO
Grilled Swordfish with Salsa Salmoriglio On the coast of Sicily, we eat a lot of fresh fish. In the seaside town of Cefalù, it is not uncommon to see whole or halves of freshly caught swordfish on display at the markets throughout town. On one trip, Zoela and I were seated in a restaurant when a fisherman brought his catch directly to the chef, who prepared only the freshest fish. In Sicily, grilled swordfish is served with salmoriglio sauce, which is both a marinade and a dressing. It is impressive, beautifully flavored, and easy to prepare.
2 tablespoons Sicilian oregano, dried or fresh (finely chopped if fresh) 2 tablespoons fresh chopped parsley 2 tablespoons fresh chopped mint (optional) Juice of 2 to 3 lemons, strained
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
Coarse sea salt and cracked black pepper to taste 4 swordfish steaks, 5 to 6 ounces each Rinse the fresh herbs and pat them dry. Set aside 2 teaspoons of lemon juice for later.
Pour the olive oil into a bowl and whisk, gradually adding the garlic, the remaining lemon juice, and the herbs. The marinade will be a bit dense, almost a paste. Add pepper to taste. Set aside.
Brush the swordfish with 2 teaspoons of lemon juice and the olive oil marinade. Dust with sea salt. Grill the swordfish until cooked through, about 3 minutes on each side, depending on the thickness of the steaks. Transfer to plates. Spoon the remaining sauce over each steak and serve.
Serves 4.
CAPONATA CLASSICA
Classic Caponata
For me, this classic sweet-and-sour eggplant dish is the heart of Sicily. No two caponata dishes are exactly alike, however; each is an expression of the heart and imagination of the person who made it. I have had it in Nonna’s kitchen and as far away as Siracusa. Dark, savory, briny, and sweet, I call this dish heaven.
Vegetable oil, for frying
2 medium to large eggplants, cut into 11/2 inch cubes Salt to taste
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 red onion, cut lengthwise and thinly sliced 3 celery stalks, blanched 1 minute in boiling water, then coarsely chopped 2 carrots, chopped
10 pitted green olives, cut lengthwise into thirds 1/4 cup capers, rinsed and drained 11/2 cups good-quality tomato sauce (see recipe for Salsa Pronta) 1 small bunch of fresh basil, chopped
1/4 cup white or red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon honey or sugar, or to taste
1/2 cup raisins (optional) 1/2 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley, for garnish Heat 1 inch of vegetable oil in a large, heavy skillet. Add the cubed eggplant in batches and fry until well browned all over, about 5 minutes. Drain on paper towels. Season with salt. Set aside.
In another large skillet, combine the olive oil and onion and sauté over medium-high heat until just golden, about 5 minutes. Add the celery, carrots, olives, capers, tomato sauce, basil, vinegar, and honey or sugar. Stir gently. Salt to taste.
Gently add the eggplant, being careful not to break it up into pieces. Add the raisins, if desired. Simmer for 2 to 3 minutes. Correct the salt. Then transfer to a large bowl or platter and allow to cool. Garnish the caponata with chopped parsley. Serve at room temperature.