From Scratch: A Memoir of Love, Sicily, and Finding Home(89)

Makes about 11/2 cups.





SPAGHETTI CON PESTO ALLA TRAPANESE


Sicilian Almond Pesto Pasta This was one of the first dishes I learned to make after that first summer in Sicily. It’s simple and direct. Though it originates from the city of Trapani, it is found on menus all over the island. I have eaten it everywhere from Stromboli to Palermo to Taormina. Each time the chef adds his or her own touch, adding less tomato or more. When making it stateside, I prepare it at the height of the summer tomato season because the dish is all about the simplicity of natural flavors coming together in perfect harmony. Each ingredient is a star.

4 cloves garlic

3/4 cup raw almonds 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

5 cups basil

1 medium to large raw tomato, peeled and chopped into 1/2-inch pieces Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste 1 (16-ounce) spaghetti

Grated pecorino or parmigiano cheese for garnishing (optional) In a blender, combine the garlic and almonds. Blend, streaming in half of the olive oil until it forms a uniform, even cream.

Add the basil, the tomatoes, and the other half of the oil while blending to make it extra smooth. Add sea salt and pepper to taste. Let the sauce sit while you cook the pasta.

Drain the pasta, return it to the pot, and add the pesto, mixing gently and thoroughly. Add a touch more olive oil to help coat the pasta with the sauce. Serve immediately. I like to dust it with grated pecorino or parmigiano cheese.

Serves 4 to 6.





INSALATA DI RUCOLA CON POMODORI E RICOTTA SALATA


Arugula Salad with Tomatoes and Ricotta Salata I found this recipe in Saro’s personal notes. He intended it as an antipasto in a menu he entitled “Summer Dinner on a Sicilian Terrace.” When I first came across it, I felt nothing but the bittersweetness of imagining another dinner with him on some terrace in Sicily. Now I make this simple salad for my friends as part of summer in Silver Lake.

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 teaspoon honey

3 bunches arugula, stems discarded 11/2 pounds fresh summer tomatoes, cut into quarters 1 small red onion, thinly sliced

1/2 pound ricotta salata cheese, shaved with a peeler Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste To make the dressing, in a small bowl, whisk together the oil, vinegar, and honey with a pinch of salt.

Make a bed of arugula on a plate. Top with tomatoes, place sliced onion throughout, and top with the ricotta salata. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Drizzle with the dressing. Serve immediately.

Serves 4 to 6.





OLIVE AROMATICHE


Aromatic Olives

Aromatic olives are always resting in bowls on the table during Nonna’s meals. She has two varieties, black and green, picked from the family orchard. She makes a batch when we arrive, and I eat them for the duration of our stay. In Los Angeles, I make my own and serve them on my favorite Sicilian ceramic dishes at parties.


Aromatic Black Olives 1 pound oil-cured black olives

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 teaspoon coarsely chopped rosemary leaves 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes Grated zest of 1 orange and 1/2 lemon Pinch of brown sugar

In a bowl, combine the olives with the olive oil, vinegar, garlic, rosemary, red pepper flakes, orange and lemon zests, and brown sugar. Stir well and allow to marinate for an hour or so. Serve at room temperature.


Aromatic Green Olives 1 pound pitted green olives

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1/2 cup carrots, finely diced 1 celery stalk with some tender leaves, chopped 2 garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons dried Sicilian oregano 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

If you are using vinegar-cured green olives, drain them of excess liquid and pat dry. In a bowl, combine the olives with the olive oil, carrots, celery, garlic, oregano, red pepper flakes, and vinegar. Stir well and allow to marinate for an hour or so. Serve at room temperature.

Makes 2 cups.





Second Summer


DITALINI CON LENTICCHIE

Ditalini Pasta with Lentils This is always the first dish Nonna serves us when we arrive. When I see the steaming plate hit the table, it is absolutely poetic. I know I am home. This dish tells any traveler that home is sharing a table with the people you love.

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 red onion

31/2 cups dry lentils, green or brown (not Le Puy) 2 small carrots, chopped 1 celery stalk or 1 small bunch celery leaves, chopped 1 clove garlic

1 tablespoon sea salt plus additional if desired Black pepper to taste

1/2 cup fresh chard or fresh spinach, chopped (optional) Pinch of dried oregano 1 box ditalini pasta

In a saucepan, combine the olive oil and onion and cook over a medium flame for about 5 minutes. Add the lentils and stir to coat with the oil. Add 4 cups water and the carrots and celery and bring to a boil. Add the garlic, 1 tablespoon sea salt, and black pepper to taste. Reduce the heat, cover, and simmer for about 20 minutes. Add the chard or spinach and oregano and simmer for another 20 to 25 minutes. Season with additional salt to taste.

Meanwhile, cook the pasta in a large pot of boiling well-salted water. Drain well. Transfer the pasta to the saucepan and mix well, coating all the pasta with the lentil mixture. Add an additional bit of olive oil to bring it all together. Dust with pecorino or parmigiano cheese, if desired. Serve immediately.