Eat the City(95)



19 New Yorkers disliked the dense flavor: “The Million’s Beverage,” New York Times, May 20, 1877.

20 “black pearls in oysters”: Burrows and Wallace, Gotham (New York: Oxford University Press, 1999), 1073.

21 chop suey houses or hole-in-the-wall saloons: Luc Sante, Low Life: Lures and Snares of Old New York (New York: Farrar, Straus, Giroux, 1991), 121.

22 fellow members held a stag dinner at Sherry’s: M. H. Dunlop, Gilded City: Scandal and Sensation in Turn of the Century New York (New York: William Morrow, 2000), Chapter Five: “Girls.”

23 received her father’s gift of a fully furnished house: “Miss Ruppert Married; She Becomes the Wife of Herman Adolph Schalk—Other Weddings Yesterday,” New-York Tribune, May 1, 1895.

24 Amanda wore orange blossoms: “Dinner, Opera, and Wedding Gowns,” New York Times, January 19, 1902.

25 “Chap 1.—How the Lover Robbed the Brewer”: “Bridegroom and Father to Fight for the Dead Bride,” New York Journal, December 12, 1897.

26 “running an automobile beyond the lawful speed limit”: “Two Congressmen Arrested,” New York Times, March 26, 1902.

27 “Adolphus Busch would drop into town”: Gerald Holland, “The Beer Barons of New York,” American Mercury 23, no. 92 (1931): 402, 406.

28 “aggressive step”: Damon Runyon, “They Call the Colonel ‘Jake.’ ” King Feature Syndicate, 1924.

29 the widow of Bible printer Daniel Fanshaw: “The Will of Daniel Fanshaw Anti-Tobacco Legacy,” New York Times, June 6, 1860; “The Late Daniel Fanshaw; Proceedings of the New-York Typographical Society,” New York Times, March 1, 1860 interviews.

30 Witness after witness testified: “Is Lager-Bier Intoxicating?” New York Times, February 5, 1858.

31 “If it takes a pail-full of bier”: Ibid.

32 “the scum of the Old World”: Burrows and Wallace, Gotham (New York: Oxford University Press, 1999), 1164.

33 Jacob Jr. developed the capacity to produce: Gerald Holland, “The Beer Barons of New York,” American Mercury 23, no. 92 (1931): 406.

34 “You may walk the streets”: “For Excise Revision; Jacob Ruppert, Jr., Says New York Law Is Best, However,” New-York Tribune, November 13, 1908.

35 beer was safer than milk: Gerald Holland, “The Beer Barons of New York,” American Mercury 23, no. 92 (1931) 407.

36 “aged in glass enameled tanks”: “Method of Brewing Beer,” New-York Tribune, March 7, 1909.

37 “I drank beer from little up”: Jeff Kisseloff, You Must Remember This: An Oral History of Manhattan from the 1890s to World War II (San Diego: Harcourt, Brace Jovanovich, 1989), 101.

38 “You couldn’t walk the street”: Ibid., 118.

39 government investigated Jacob Jr.’s closest relatives: Letter from Chief to Leland Harrison, Office of the Counselor, State Department, November 2, 1917. Letter from Chief Agent 78448 to W. Offley, November 2, 1917.

40 The State Department was concerned: Letter from Chief Agent 78448 to W. Offley, November 2, 1917.

41 her son George and his wife, Emma: Notes from DOI files, February 18, 1918.

42 “George Ruppert’s wife met Count Von Bernsdorff”: Notes from DOI files, author and date unknown.

43 “Enemy Propaganda Backed by Brewers”: “Enemy Propaganda Backed By Brewers,” New York Times, November 21, 1918.

44 In Jacob Ruppert vs. Caffey: K. Jacob Ruppert, “In Re John Barleycorn: The Role of the NYCLA in the Repeal of Prohibition,” New York County Lawyer, November 2005.

45 The Supreme Court dismissed Jacob Jr.’s injunction: “Ban on 2.75 Beers in Wartime Upheld by Supreme Court,” New York Times, January 6, 1920.

46 The answer was extensive: New York Telegram, 1929. Quoted in Luc Sante, Low Life: Lures and Snares of Old New York (New York: Farrar, Straus, Giroux, 1991), 138.

47 the Cotton Club in Harlem: Jervis Anderson, This Was Harlem, 1900–1950 (New York: Farrar, Straus, Giroux, 1981); Jim Haskins, The Cotton Club (New York: Random House, 1977), 29–30.

48 “thundering up the cobbled pavement”: “Schultz Reigned on Discreet Lines,” New York Times, October 25, 1935.

49 an elaborate system to pipe its beer underground: “Dry Raid on Garage Reveals ‘Beer Line,’ ” New York Times, August 8, 1930.

50 Gangsters waged beer wars with spectacular violence: “Schultz Reigned on Discreet Lines,” New York Times, October 25, 1935.

51 They would stalk drivers and payroll men: Ibid.

52 “in a sporting spirit”: Jacob Ruppert, “The Ten-Million-Dollar Toy,” Saturday Evening Post, March 28, 1931.

53 the power to make immigrant children American: Steven A. Riess, Touching Base: Professional Baseball and American Culture in the Progressive Era (Urbana: University of Illinois Press, 1983), 29.

54 the Yankees … shouldering their bats like guns: Glenn Stout, Yankees Century: 100 Years of New York Yankees Baseball (Boston: Houghton Mifflin Company, 2002), 71.

55 “He shivers, turns up the collar”: Damon Runyon, “They Call the Colonel ‘Jake.’ ” King Feature Syndicate, 1924.

56 “They are not sure their salesmen can meet: “Brewers Tell Fear of Gang Rivalry,” New York Times, November 24, 1932.

57 3.2 percent beer, at least, returned: “Bottling to Start Now,” New York Times, March 23, 1933.

Robin Shulman's Books