Eat the City(90)



1 a “rock star butcher”: Kim Severson, “Young Idols With Cleavers Rule the Stage,” New York Times, July 7, 2009.

2 “scattered over many populous districts”: Quoted in Roger Horowitz, Putting Meat on the American Table: Taste, Technology, Transformation (Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 2006), 29.

3 “offensive odors”: Horowitz, Ibid., 25.

4 one reporter unrolled a map: “Plague Spots in the City,” New-York Tribune, December 26, 1880.

5 “The meat was exceedingly tender”: Jasper Danckaerts, Journal of Jasper Danckaerts, 1679–1680, 51.

6 On the journey across the ocean: Peter G. Rose, trans. and ed., The Sensible Cook: Dutch Foodways in the Old and the New World (Syracuse University Press, 1989). 24.

7 “the heads of sheep”: Raymond A. Mohl, Poverty in New York, 1783–1825 (Oxford University Press, 1971). Quoted in Donna R. Gabaccia, We Are What We Eat: Ethnic Food and the Making of Americans (Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 2000), 59.

8 “To get a proper crust”: Myspace.com, Tom Mylan blog, www.?myspace.?com/?tommylan/?blog/?201517708.

9 “While I haven’t made it”: Myspace.com, Tom Mylan blog “How to Cook an Expensive Steak,” www.?myspace.?com/?tommylan/?blog.

10 “Sorry I bled everywhere”: Rebecca Marx, “More Mylan Mayhem: Mylan Injured, but Still Able to Type,” Village Voice, July 27, 2009. blogs.?villagevoice.?com/?forkintheroad/?2009/?07/?more_?mylan_?mayh.?php.

11 “a 6×8 box, outdoors”: the-?meathook.?tumblr.?com/?post/?220333571/?oh-?helll-?yesss-?were-?going-?to-?be-?on-?the-?brian.

12 “These are mostly masculine fantasies”: Bonnie Powell, “Having a Ball in Tunisia,” Meatpaper, Issue 3, Spring 2009.

13 Hog riots broke out in 1825: This entire account from Edwin G. Burrows and Mike Wallace, Gotham: A History of New York City to 1898 (New York: Oxford University Press, 1999), 477.

14 Despite officials’ best efforts: Jane Ziegelman, 97 Orchard: An Edible History of Five Immigrant Families in One New York Tenement (New York: HarperCollins Publishers, 2010), 113–14.

15 “Our wives and daughters cannot walk abroad”: Cadwallader Colden, quoted in Burrows and Wallace, Gotham: A History of New York City to 1898 (New York: Oxford University Press, 1999), 477. The description of pigs in this paragraph is also from Gotham.

16 “Here is a solitary swine”: Charles Dickens, “American Notes for General Circulation,” in Writing New York: A Literary Anthology, ed. Philip Lopate (New York: Library of America, 2008), 58.

17 “putrefy on the dealer’s hands”: Robert Milham Hartley, An Historical, Scientific, and Practical Essay on Milk: As an Article of Human Sustenance; with a Consideration of the Effects Consequent upon the Present Unnatural Methods of Producing It for the Supply of Large Cities (Jonathan Leavitt, 1842), 147.

18 They had marched in civic parades: Roger Horowitz, “The Politics of Meat Shopping in Antebellum New York City,” in Paula Young Lee, ed., Meat, Modernity and the Rise of the Slaughterhouse (Durham: University of New Hampshire Press, 2008).

19 the 320, 500 cattle, 1.2 million hogs: “The Board of Health: An Important Meeting Yesterday,” New York Times, September 3, 1874.

20 “The lowing and moaning of the cattle”: Albert H. Buck, ed., A Treatise of Hygiene and Health, vol. 2 (New York: William Wood & Co., 1876), 404.

21 “Slaughtering establishments are just as essential”: “As to Slaughterhouses,” New York Times, April 2, 1899.

22 “Please tune in”: The Meat Hook blog, October 15, 2009. the-meathook tumblr.?com/?post/?213737668/?at-?10-?30-?at-?night-?my-?phone-?rings-?its-?harry (accessed September 14, 2011).

23 “I spend every waking moment”: getcurrency.?com/?dining-?travel/?tommylan-?butcher-?and-?co-?owner-?the-?meat-?hook-?brooklyn. Web site no longer available.

24 “era of cheap beef”: Quoted in Horowitz, Putting Meat on the American Table, (Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 2006), 29.

25 “to give the impression”: Hasia R. Diner, Hungering for America: Italian, Irish, and Jewish Foodways in the Age of Migration (Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 2003), 164.

26 The Centennial Brewery converted: Gansevoort Market Historic District Designation Report, New York City Landmarks Preservation Commission, 2003, 15. www.?thehighline.?org/?about/?neighborhood-?info.

27 As late as 1929, a full third: Donna R. Gabaccia, We Are What We Eat: Ethnic Food and the Making of Americans (Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 2000), 70.

28 “I definitely look at everyone”: Tom Mylan, “Sex Advice from Butchers,” September 10, 2009, Nerve.com. www.?nerve.?com/?advice/?sex-?advice-?from/?sex-?advice-?from-?butchers??page=?2.

29 in 1932, a second tunnel was constructed: “Appendix K: Archaeological Resources, Hudson Yards FGEIS,” www.?nyc.?gov/?…/?hyards/?app_?k_?archaeological_?text_?fgeis_?final.?pdf.

30 workers finally built: For a detailed account of events in this paragraph, see Clarence Dean, “West Side Ending Cattle Run Epoch,” New York Times, November 13, 1955.

31 “It’s Saturday night”: Sarah DiGregorio, “Chatting with Tom Mylan: Date-Night Butchery, the Word ‘Hipster,’ and Why Butchering Is Not as Cool As You Think It Is,” Village Voice, November 16, 2009. blogs.?villagevoice.?com/?forkintheroad/?2009/?11/?chatting_?with_?t.?php.

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