Eat the City(92)

9 The quantity of these articles: Anne Grant, Memoirs of An American Lady, 113. Quoted in Peter G. Rose, trans. and ed., The Sensible Cook: Dutch Foodways in the Old and the New World (Syracuse University Press, 1989), 28.

10 “a noise of trumpets”: Russell Shorto, The Island at the Center of the World: The Epic Story of Dutch Manhattan and the Forgotten Colony That Shaped America (New York: Vintage Books, 2005), 64.

11 little bag of sugar could buy: “Account left by Mr. Josua and Mordakay Enriques, the first of the month of January 1656.” New Netherland Project, the New Netherland Institute, Resolution Book of Cura?ao, 1643 and 1644, no. 58, MM, article 37. www.?nnp.?org/?nnrc/?Documents/?curacao/?index.?html#/?1/.

12 Boil black cherries in wine: Peter G. Rose, trans. and ed., The Sensible Cook: Dutch Foodways in the Old and the New World (Syracuse University Press, 1989), 103.

13 Dutch West India Company officials: “Inventory of the Caribbean Muscovado Sugar Sent Aboard the Galiot Nieuw Amstel …” New Netherland Project, article 48a, the New Netherland Institute, www.?nnp.?org/?nnrc/?Documents/?curacao/?index.?html#/?1/.

14 the men on board subsisted mainly: Robert C. Ritchie, Captain Kidd and the War Against the Pirates (Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 1986), 29.

15 “such an excessive Rain”: Edward Ward, A Trip to Jamaica: With a True Character of the People and Island (London, 1698). Quoted in Thomas W. Krise, ed., Caribbeana: An Anthology of English Literature of the West Indies, 1657–1777 (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1999), 85.

16 “notwithstanding her husband’s presence”: Ibid., 62.

17 “what he was doing”: Ibid., 83–84.

18 New York increased molasses imports: John James McCusker, Jr., “The Rum Trade and the Balance of Payments of the Thirteen Continental Colonies, 1650–1775,” (PhD dissertation, University of Pittsburgh, 1970), 444.

19 You could also drink a calibogus: List of drinks from Wayne Curtis, And a Bottle of Rum: A History of the New World in Ten Cocktails (New York: Broadway Books), 2007.

20 alcohol consumption for white men: John James McCusker, Jr., “The Rum Trade and the Balance of Payments of the Thirteen Continental Colonies, 1650–1775,” (PhD dissertation, University of Pittsburgh, 1970), 468.

21 “Dam’d fine girl”: Christine Stansell, City of Women: Sex and Class in New York, 1789–1860 (Urbana: University of Illinois Press, 1987), 27.

22 Caribbean seasonal rhythms: This whole description of the New York waterfront is from Burrows and Wallace, Gotham: A History of New York City to 1898 (New York: Oxford University Press, 1999), 122-123.

23 only one sugarhouse in that early period: Mary Louise Booth, History of the City of New York: From Its Earliest Settlement to the Present Time (New York: W. R. G. Clark and Meeker, 1859).

24 “PUBLICK NOTICE”: New-York Gazette, August 17, 1730.

25 “We are of Opinion Good Bright Muscovado”: “Letter from John and Henry Cruger to Jeremiah Piniston, New York, August 19, 1766,” John and Henry Cruger: Letter Book June 18, 1766–August 11, 1787, New-York Historical Society.

26 Newsmen at the New-York Gazette: New-York Gazette, 1726, 1750.

27 “all kinds of sweet meats, sugar work”: A 1796 advertisement in Rita Susswein Gottesman, ed., The Arts and Crafts of New York, 1800–1804: Advertisements and News Items from New York City Newspapers (New York: New-York Historical Society, 1965), 310. Quoted in Cindy R. Lobel, “Consuming Classes: Changing Food Consumption Patterns in New York City, 1780–1860,” (PhD dissertation, City University of New York, 2003), 76.

28 The Witte Paert sailed: Leslie M. Harris, In the Shadow of Slavery: African Americans in New York City, 1626–1863 (Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 2003), 15.

29 Fully a fifth of the city’s people: Ibid., 49.

30 “as much good sugar and rum”: James A. Rawley with Stephen D. Behrendt, The Transatlantic Slave Trade: A History, revised edition (Lincoln: University of Nebraska Press, 2005), 338.

31 suggested the maple tree as a “boundless” source: Daily Advertiser, March 8, 1790. Quoted in David N. Gellman, Emancipating New York: The Politics of Slavery and Freedom, 1777–1827 (Baton Rouge: Louisiana State University Press, 2006), 92.

32 “the lash of cruelty on our fellow creatures”: Ibid., 93.

33 Fine hairs on the cane stalk: Edward A. Suchman and Raul A. Mu?oz, “Accident Occurrence and Control Among SugarCane Workers,” Journal of Occupational Medicine 9 (1967): 407.

34 “It is really now one of the most rucketing”: Eric Homberger, The Historical Atlas of New York City: A Visual Celebration of Nearly 400 Years of New York City’s History (New York: Henry Holt, 1994), 70.

35 “I have been here only 3 days”: Letter from Frederick Havemeyer to his wife, London, June 8, 1839. Reproduced in Henry O. Havemeyer, Biographical Record of the Havemeyer Family, 1600–1943, more particularly the descendants of Frederick Christian Havemeyer (1774–1841), and their sugar refining interests (New York: privately printed for Henry Osborne Havemeyer, 1944).

36 “confectionary and gew-gaws”: Philip Hone, Diary, January 26, 1838. Quoted in Phillip Lopate, ed., Writing New York: A Literary Anthology (New York: The Library of America), 1998.

37 Per capita consumption of sugar leapt: Cindy R. Lobel, “Consuming Classes: Changing Food Consumption Patterns in New York City, 1780–1860,” (PhD dissertation, City University of New York, 2003), 78.