Taste: My Life through Food(25)

Upon hearing the sound of car tires on the gravel drive and a moment later the shouts of “Merry Christmas!” from my parents’ mouths, I would sheepishly look at Kate. She would sigh quietly and then, as she slowly turned and stared at me, I would see something die in her eyes. At this point my anxiety level would skyrocket and I’d flit off to the bar to see if I couldn’t find liquid calm in a bloody Mary or a scotch sour. Laden with gifts and platters of food,III including the pièce de résistance shrouded in a large dishcloth, my elegantly dressed parents would climb the stairs smiling from ear to ear, as thrilled to see us as if we’d all been separated for decades, when in fact we had only just seen them the night before. They were so happy and excited, how could I even think of being put out by their extremely early arrival? (Well, perhaps not so much me as my poor wife.) I will tell you how. The timpano.

First let me give you the recipe so that you might acquaint yourselves with this traditional Tucci family fare.





Timpano


— SERVES 12 TO 16 —

(THE PROPORTIONS MAY BE ADAPTED TO FIT A SMALLER OR LARGER CONTAINER)

The dough for timpano is rolled out into a thin round, the diameter of which is determined by the pan you are baking it in. Add together the diameter of the bottom of the pan, the diameter of the top of the pan, and twice the height of the pan. The total will equal the approximate diameter needed. The dough may be kneaded in advance and set aside while you prepare the pan, or refrigerated overnight. Return it to room temperature before rolling it out. It is important to generously grease the pan with butter and olive oil before lining the pan with the dough. Greasing and lining the pan with the dough may be done while the pasta is cooking.

The meat used in preparing the ragù is generally served for dinner the night before the timpano is baked, because no one has room for anything other than salad after eating timpano.

— FOR THE DOUGH —

4 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

4 large eggs

1 teaspoon kosher salt

3 tablespoons olive oil

? cup water



— TO PREPARE THE PAN —

Butter

Olive oil



— FOR THE FILLING —

3 pounds ziti, cooked very al dente (about half the time recommended on the package) and drained (18 cups cooked)

2 tablespoons olive oil

8 cups Ragù Tucci (double the recipe on page 71), at room temperature

4 cups (? x ?-inch pieces) Genoa salami, at room temperature

4 cups (? x ?-inch cubes) sharp provolone cheese, at room temperature

12 hard-boiled large eggs, shelled, quartered lengthwise, and each quarter cut in half to create chunks, at room temperature

4 cups little meatballs, at room temperature

1 cup finely grated Pecorino Romano

6 large eggs, beaten



To make the dough: Place the flour, eggs, salt, and olive oil in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook. (A large-capacity food processor may also be used.) Add 3 tablespoons of the water and process. Add more water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until the mixture comes together and forms a ball. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead to make sure it is well mixed, about 10 minutes. Set aside to rest for 5 minutes.

(To knead the dough by hand, mix the flour and salt together on a clean, dry work surface or pastry board. Form the dry ingredients into a mound and then make a well in the center. Break the eggs into the center of the well and beat them lightly with a fork. Stir in 3 tablespoons of the water. Use the fork to gradually incorporate some of the dry ingredients into the egg mixture. Continue mixing the dry ingredients into the eggs, adding the remaining water 1 tablespoon at a time. Knead the dough with your hands to make a well-mixed, smooth, dry dough. If the dough becomes too sticky, add more flour. Set aside to rest for 5 minutes.)

Flatten the dough out on a lightly floured work surface. Dust the top of the dough with flour and roll it out, dusting with flour and flipping the dough over from time to time to keep it from sticking to the work surface, until it is about 1?16 inch thick and the desired diameter.

Prepare the pan: Grease the timpano baking pan (a round enamel basin or casserole dish) very generously with butter and olive oil so that it is well lubricated. Fold the dough in half and then in half again to form a triangle and place it in the pan. Unfold the dough and arrange it in the pan, gently pressing it against the bottom and the side and draping the extra dough over the side. Set aside.

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Make the filling: Toss the drained pasta with the olive oil and allow it to cool slightly before tossing with 2 cups of the ragù. Distribute 4 generous cups of the pasta over the dough on the bottom of the timpano. Top with 1 cup of the salami, 1 cup of the provolone, 3 of the hard-boiled eggs, 1 cup of the meatballs, and ? cup of the Romano cheese. Pour 2 cups of the ragù over these ingredients. Repeat this process to create additional layers using an equal amount of each ingredient until they have come within 1 inch of the top of the pan, ending with 2 cups of ragù.

Pour the beaten eggs over the filling. Fold the dough over the filling to seal completely. Trim away and discard any overlapping dough. Make sure that the timpano is tightly sealed. If you notice any small openings, cut a piece of the trimmed dough to fit over the opening, using a small amount of water to moisten the scraps to ensure a tight seal has been made.